Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Culinary List.
Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy β adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city β after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 β to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city β the administrative center of India's biggest state β is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City β as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers β is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani β the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat β zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks β little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative β crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.